Like its name, the Hindi word for waterfall, this lace scarf cascades over your shoulders. The wavy border and the mesh center are worked all in one piece. The rich color, subtle sheen, and great stitch definition of KnitPicks Gloss make it a wonderful yarn to show off the stitch pattern.

When I made the sample, I used every inch of the yarn and had a 9″x48″ scarf. Gauge isn’t crucial for this pattern, but if you think you’ll want it longer than this I definitely recommend getting a second skein. I loved working with this yarn

I’ve been (mostly) keeping up with my photo project. I have to admit to a teeny bit of “cheating”, but I’m not going to let it stop me. Here is my March Mosaic:

If you’re on Ravelry, we’ve got a group going for this Project 365…come join us!

As part of my Project Yarnway challenge on Ravelry, I designed this wavy edged lace scarf, and I am now offering the pattern for sale. It can be knit in fingering, sport or dk weight yarn.  Gauge is not crucial to this pattern, but knitting on size US 7 or US8 needles should give a scarf that is about 8 inches wide.  I recommend a blockable solid color yarn to best show off the lace pattern, as variegated yarns tend to overwhelm the detail.

The pattern includes a chart as well as row by row written instructions.

Jharana Scarf Pattern – .pdf download – $1.99

I hope you enjoy the pattern.  Please check back as I will be adding more patterns (both free and for purchase)

Here is a thumbnail mosaic of January. Clicking on it will take you to my Shuttercal.com page where you can see the full size photos if you like:

If you have a favorite photography/photoshop tutorial or technique I’d love to hear about it!

I had fun knitting this vest.  It starts with a cable, and stitches are picked up along the long edges to work the bodice and the ribbed body.  Everything is worked flat except for the arm ribbing where stitches are picked up and worked in the round.  There are quite a few ends to weave in – I found it helpful to weave them in as I went so they didn’t get in the way.

needle size: US4
yarn: Sirdar Snuggly DK
gauge: 6 sts and 9 rows in 1 inch
other materials needed: 5 inches of sew-in velcro (or snap closures)

Stitch Guide:
T5R – Slip 3 stitches onto cable needle and hold to the back.  Knit next 2 stitches then p1, k2 from the cable needle
T3F – slip 2 stitches onto cable needle and hold to the front – purl next stitch, then knit the 2 stitches from cable needle
T3B – slip 1 stitch onto cable needle and hold to the back – knit the next 2 stitches, then purl the stitch on the cable needle
Make Bobble: knit into front, back, and front of next stitch.  Turn and k3. Turn and p3. Turn and k3. Turn and sl 1, k2tog, psso.
CDD: sl 2 together as if to knit, k1, pass both slipped stitches over

Errata: For anyone who may have printed this pattern between 1/17/11 and 1/30/11 — There are 21 live stitches when starting the neck ribbing, not 20.  I’m sorry for the confusion and the erroneous errata

Cable Band:
CO 13
knit 10 repeats of the cable chart
k2, p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k2
p2, k2, p2, k1, p2, k2, p2
repeat the last 2 rows 3 times
bind off

Written out cable instructions:

Row 1 – k2, p2, T5R, p2, k2
Row 2 – p2, k2, p2, k1, p2, k2, p2
Row 3 – k2, p1, T3B, p1, T3F, p1, k2
Row 4 – p2, k1, p2, k3, p2, k1, p2
Row 5 – k2, T3B, p3, T3F, k2
Row 6 – p4, k5, p4
Row 7 – k4, p2, make bobble, p2, k4
Row 8 – p4, k5, p4
Row 9 – k2, T3F, p3, T3B, k2
Row 10 – p2, k1, p2, k3, p2, k1, p2
Row 11 – k2, p1, T3F, p1, T3B, p1, k2
Row 12 – p2, k2, p2, k1, p2, k2, p2

Bodice:

Turn the cable horizontally with the cast on edge on the left.  Pick up and knit 98 stitches along the top edge of the cable band (3 stitches for every 4 rows starting at the bind off end)

purl one row
knit one row
purl one row
k32, bind off  next 6 stitches, k33, bind off next 6 stitches, k19

Front and back sections will be worked separately at this point.  If using a circular needle, the unworked sections will remain on the cable.

Right Back

purl 20

k1, ssk, knit to end
purl

repeat last 2 rows 3 more times (16 sts)

knit 6 rows in stockinette
k7, place remaining stitches on waste yarn or stitch holder
work the 7 stitches in stockinette for 8 rows

break yarn leaving a tail long enough to kitchener the shoulder, place stitches on holder.

Right Front

reattach yarn
purl 17 stitches, turn
row1 – k1, ssk, k11, k2tog, k1
row 2 (and all WS rows) – purl
row 3 – k1, ssk, k to end
row 5 – k1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1
row 7 – k1, ssk, k to end
row 9 – k1, ssk, k5, k2tog, k1
row 11 – k1, ssk, knit to end
row 13 – k1, ssk, knit to end
row 14 – purl

Work 8 rows of stockinette

Break yarn, place stitches on holder

Left Front

reattach yarn

purl 17

row 1 – k1, ssk, k11, k2tog, k1
row 2 (and all WS rows) – purl
row 3 – k12, k2tog, k1
row 5 – k1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1
row 7 – k9, k2tog, k1
row 9 – k1, ssk, k5, k2tog, k1
row 11 – k6, k2tog, k1
row 13 – k5, k2tog, k1
row 14 – purl

work 8 rows of stockinette

break yarn, place stitches on holder

Left Back

purl 32

row 1 – k29, k2tog, k1
row 2 (and all WS rows) – purl
row 3 – k28, k2tog, k1
row 5 – k27, k2tog, k1
row 7 – k26, k2tog, k1
row 8 – purl

work 5 rows of stockinette
p7, place remaining stitches on holder

work 9 rows of stockinette, break yarn leaving tail long enough to kitchener the shoulder

place stitches on holder

Body:

pick up and knit 102 stitches along bottom edge of cable band (4 sts for every 5 rows)
work 2 inches of slip stitch rib:

right side – p2, *k1, sl 1 purlwise, k1, p2 rep from * to end
wrong side – k2, *p3, k2, rep from * to end

Join the front and back sections together at the shoulders using the kitchener stitch.

Neck Ribbing

Place the 21 live stitches of left back on right needle.  Reattach yarn and knit these stitches.
Pick up and knit 29 stitches along left front neckline, and 29 stitches along right front neckline
Knit the 9 live stitches of right back

row 1: (p2,k2) 18 times, p1, p2tog (mark this center stitch), p1, (k2, p2) to end
row 2: (k2,p2) to 1 stitch before center stitch, CDD, (p2, k2) to end
row 3: work as set (center stitch is a purl)
row 4: work as set to one stitch before center stitch, CDD, work as set to end
row 5: work as set
bind off in pattern

Arm Ribbing

Pick up 44 stitches around the arm opening, work in 2×2 rib for 4 rows
bind off in pattern

Finishing:

Weave in remaining ends

Sew velcro (or snap) closure along back opening

My 10 year old daughter is getting much more opinionated about her fashion style.  With the insistence that it not be “poofy” we searched through the pattern books and realized that there are very few dressy dress patterns in her size.  We managed to find only one that, with the right fabric, would work for Christmas, but it’s sleeveless – not a good choice for December in New England.

It was fun watching Maya choose fabric for her dress.  She’s still learning how different fabrics behave,  but she has a good eye and chose a burgundy polyester shantung and a black sequined mesh for an overlay.  I had to talk her out of a gorgeous flocked taffeta because I knew it wouldn’t drape the way she wanted.  Even though I would have loved it, I wasn’t about to spend the time and money making a dress that she wouldn’t wear because it didn’t match the image in her head.

Because of the bare shoulders, I was also asked for some sort of knit shrug and she chose Vanna’s Glamour yarn in platinum. It doesn’t feel as soft knit up as it does in the skein, but it is still nice and has a lovely, subtle, twinkly sparkle; Perfect for a girl who loves anything glittery.

The shrug starts with a rectangle, is partially seamed at the sides to create armholes, and stitches are picked up for a ribbed sleeve cuff.

Tips for resizing

* The ribbing section must have a multiple of 4+2 stitches
* The knotted openwork must have a multiple of 3 stitches.
* When changing the number of stitches cast on or the gauge, the decrease/increase rows will not be the same as what I have here…decrease/increase as evenly across the row as possible.
* The edge of the knotted openwork section is what becomes the opening for the sleeve…work this section until it is the same measurement as the circumference of the upper arm.

Knotted Openwork Girl’s Shrug

yarn: Vanna’s Glamour
needles: US5, US9
gauge: 24 stitches/4 inches on smaller needles in stockinette,
17 sts/4 inches on larger needles in knotted openwork
size: 10/12, 18″ doll size instructions below

*new*-  notes on how to modify to girl’s size 6 (below size 10/12 instructions)

knotted openwork stitch pattern:
row 1 – k2, *yo, k3, with left needle lift and pass the 1st of the 3 stitches just knitted over the last 2, rep from * to last st, k1
row 2 – purl
row 3 – k1, *k3, with left needle lift and pass the 1st of the 3 stitches just knitted over the last 2, yo, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2
row 4 – purl

Size 10/12:

Cast on 146 sts (on size 5 needles)

Work 3 inches of 2×2 rib (beginning and ending right side rows with k2)

Decrease round: (RS)
Switch to size 9 needles
k1, *[k2tog, k1] 8 times, [k2tog, k2] 3 times, repeat from * to last stitch, k1 (102 sts)

Purl one row then work 9 inches in knotted openwork stitch

Increase round: (RS)
Switch to size 5 needles
k1, *[kfb, k1] 8 times, [kfb, k2] 3 times,  repeat from * to last stitch, k1 (146 sts)

Work 3 inches of 2×2 rib (beginning and ending right side rows with k2)

Bind off in pattern.

Fold the rectangle in half lining up the cast on edge and the bind off edge.

Seam up the sides of the ribbing.

Pick up and knit 56 stitches around armhole.  Work 2 inches of 2×2 ribbing in the round. Bind off in pattern.

Repeat with second sleeve.

*new  sizing info*  Someone asked me how to modify this for a girl’s size 6 and I thought I should post it here as well.   I would make the rectangle 20 inches wide instead of 24 inches (at the same gauge, I’d cast on 122 sts and decrease to 84 sts for the knotted openwork section. Work the knotted openwork until it measures the same as your daughter’s upper arm circumference (probably about 8”) and then increase back to 122 sts. Seam, and pick up 48 stitches for the sleeves)

I haven’t knit that size, but that’s what my math says   I’d love to hear how it works.

18″ doll size:

The basic construction/gauge is the same as the child size.

CO 42 sts

Work 10 rows of 2×2 ribbing, beginning and ending with k2

Switch to size 9 needles
k1, *k2tog, k1, k2tog, k2  repeat from * to last 6 stitches (k2tog, k1)twice (30 sts)

Work 4.5 inches of knotted openwork

Switch to size 4 needles
k1, *kfb, k1, kfb, k2 repeat from * to last 4 sts, (kfb, k1) twice (42 sts)

The next row is a WS row, (p2, k2) to end, last 2 sts are p2
work 8 more rows of 2×2 rib

Bind off in pattern.

Fold in half (lining up cast on and bind off edges) and seam up the sides of the ribbing.

Pick up and knit 24 stitches around armhole.  work 10 rounds of 2×2 ribbing. Bind off in pattern.  Repeat with other sleeve.

Merry Christmas!

I’m back on the Project Yarnway wagon!  It’s the finale and we have to put together a collection of 5 items by the end of February.  This is the first item I have finished, though one more item is nearly complete.

I’m so pleased with this doll skirt that I’m thinking about making it in my size

needles: US7, US9
gauge: 11sts/2 inches
yarn: worsted (10 ply) – less than 200 yards (shown in Patons Classic Wool)
size: 18″ doll

other materials needed: 10.5 inches of 1/4″ wide elastic, safety pin, stitch markers

LLinc: Left-leaning Lifted Increase. Insert your left needle, from front to back, under the left leg of the stitch two rows below the stitch just knit. Knit into the back of this stitch.

RLinc: Right-leaning Lifted Increase. Insert your right needle, from front to back, under the right leg of the stitch below the first stitch on the left needle. Transfer this stitch to your left needle and knit into the front of it.

Errata (fixed 1/12/11):  In written out lace instructions rounds 9 and 11…it should end with yo, k4, yo, k1 in both instances.

CO 60
Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist

waistband:
rounds 1-4 – Knit
round 5 – purl (this will be the fold line for the waistband)
rounds 6-8 – knit
round 9 – [Insert tip of left needle into first st of CO edge which is directly behind first st on needle, k this st together with first stitch on needle] to last 8 sts; k to end. This leaves an opening for elastic to be inserted.

body
knit 4 rounds, marking center of round and end of round
next round – k2, LLinc, k26, RLinc, k2, sl marker, k2, RLinc, k26, LLinc, k2

repeat these 5 rounds 2 more times (72 stitches)

knit without increasing until skirt is 4.5  inches long (on last round place stitch markers every 9 stitches to mark pattern repeat)

lace
switch to larger needles

round 1 – *k2, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3  rep from * to end of round
round 2 (and all even rounds) – knit
round 3 – *yo, k1, yo, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1 rep from * to end of round
round 5 – *yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k1 rep from *
round 7 – *yo, k4, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k4, yo, k1 rep from *
round 9 – *yo, k4, yo, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, yo, k4, yo, k1 rep from *
round 11 – *yo, k4, yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k4, yo, k1 rep from *
round 12 – knit

Here is the chart for the lace repeat that is written out above:

Bind off

Use a safety pin to run the elastic through the waistband. Overlap the ends about 1/2″ and sew together making sure the elastic is not twisted.  Use the yarn tail from CO to sew casing closed.

Block to open up the lace. I placed it in this position, pinned and steam blocked the hem:

We went to a friend’s home for a tree-trimming party. I thought they had a fabulous idea – they pulled out all their ornaments and let the children decorate the tree. It was so much fun to watch! As always I had my camera with me and in between taking pictures of the action I stopped to take a couple of shots of the table which held the decorations and the sweets. This was my favorite photo of the day.

I used a fixed 20mm lens and got in really close.  I wish I had brought a tripod with me since there wasn’t a whole lot of light and it required a long shutter speed.  Until I got home and saw it full size I was afraid that the camera shook and the photo was horribly blurry.  The focus isn’t 100%, but overall I’m pleased with it.  It definitely feels like Christmas and makes me feel happy

Happy Holidays!