Yay! I finished another item for the girl’s American Girl dolls. This is an A-line skirt with a ridged eyelet border at the hem. It is worked in the round from the waistband down to the hem.
Needles: US3 (circular or DPNs)
Yarn: fingering weight sock yarn (pictured in Plymouth Sockotta) 200 yards
Gauge: 7 sts/inch
Additional supplies needed: 10.5 inches of 1/4″ wide elastic, needle and thread, safety pin
LLinc: Left-leaning Lifted Increase. Insert your left needle, from front to back, under the left leg of the stitch two rows below the stitch just knit. Knit into the back of this stitch.
RLinc: Right-leaning Lifted Increase. Insert your right needle, from front to back, under the right leg of the stitch below the first stitch on the left needle. Transfer this stitch to your left needle and knit into the front of it.
**Increase round: k1, LLinc, knit to one stitch before center of round, RLinc, sl marker, k1, LLinc, knit to one stitch before end of round, RLinc, k1.
CO 76 stitches leaving a 6-8″ yarn tail
Join to knit in the round, being careful not to twist
knit 5 rounds
purl 1 round
knit 4 rounds
next round: [Insert tip of left needle into st of CO edge which is directly behind first st on needle, k this st together with first stitch on needle] to last 8 sts; k to end. This leaves an opening for elastic to be inserted.
Body of skirt:
knit 4 rounds, being sure to mark beginning of round and center of round.
work one increase round**
(repeat these 5 rounds 4 more times)
knit 8 rounds
work one increase round**
(repeat these 9 rounds once more)
Ridged eyelet border:
round 1 – purl
round 2 – knit
round 3 – (k2tog, yo) to end
round 4 – knit
round 5 – purl
rounds 6-8 – knit
round 9 – purl
round 10 – knit
round 11 – (k2tog, yo) to end
round 12 – knit
Bind off purlwise
Block to open up the lace and get rid of any slight rolling.
Use a safety pin to run the elastic through the waistband. Overlap the ends about 1/2″ and sew together making sure the elastic is not twisted. Use the yarn tail from CO to sew casing closed.
Both of my daughters have American Girl dolls. From now until Christmas I am going to see how many pieces of clothing and accessories I can make for them. The first project was a quickie and used just a small amount of sock yarn.
Needles: size US3 (3.25mm) circular (for magic loop) or double pointed needles.
Yarn: fingering weight sock yarn (25-30 yards)
Gauge: 6 stitches per inch in stockinette
CO 24, join to work in the round being careful not to twist.
Work 10 rounds of 2×2 rib
Round 11: k1fb, k1fb, (p2, k2) to end [26 sts.]
Round 12: k4, (p2, k2) to end
Round 13: k1fb, k2, k1fb, (p2,k2) to end [28 sts.]
Round 14: k6, (p2, k2) to end
Round 15: k1, bind off next 4 sts, (p2, k2) to end [24sts]
Round 16: you now have 1 stitch, a gap where the thumb stitches have been bound off, and then the rest of the stitches. Ignore the gap and (k2, p2) to the end continuing to work in the round.
Round 17: k2tog, (p2, k2) to end. [23 sts.]
Rounds 18-21 – k1, (p2, k2) to end
Bind off in pattern
I’m frugal, thrifty, and penny-pinching. Whichever word you want to use, that’s me – I don’t like to spend money if I don’t have to. In that vein, I’m no stranger to unraveling thrift store sweaters, and I’ve gotten some great yarn from $5 x-large sweaters. My latest obsession is using the yarn from more than one sweater to create a marled yarn. It adds so much depth to the finished item, and you can play with color and contrast as much, or as little, as you like.
This is a lap blanket (the beautiful Hemlock Ring) I am making from 2 cotton sweaters – one mint green, and the other chocolate brown. I love how the colors contrast.
In this shrug I used much less contrast – an off white and a beige. This gives a much more subtle effect.
I wind each color into a separate center pull ball and hold the strands together, lightly twisting as I knit. I find gauge a bit unpredictable, so swatching is important. Even if fit is not a concern, I’ll usually try the stitch pattern with a couple different needle sizes to make sure I get a fabric I love.
Here are two great tutorials for reclaiming yarn from thrift store sweaters:
If you’re not an unraveller, no worries…this technique can be used with new yarn too 🙂
I’ve recently become a dishcloth convert. I got sick of the stinky sponges that I was constantly throwing out and replacing (I absolutely despise that smell on my hands when I pick up a sponge I didn’t realize was yucky already!) It is so much easier to squeeze out the water from a dishcloth and when hung over the faucet it dries out nicely wth no stink!
I’ve been going through the dishcloth patterns on Ravelry and making the ones that catch my fancy, but then thought that it would be more interesting for me to play with my own designs. Here is my first foray into dishcloth design. It is a mitered square worked from the center out with a diamond lace motif in two of the sections. I’m not sure what size I’m going to like for dishcloths, so I’m experimenting with different sizes. I think this is a bit big, but we’ll see – I’m sure it will come in handy for something in the kitchen 🙂
needle: size US5 circular or double pointed needles
yarn: Lily Sugar’n Cream (worsted weight cotton)
size: 12″ square
CO 8 stitches – join to work in the round and knit all stitches
I used magic loop, half the stitches on one needle, half on the second. Mark the beginning of round and center of round so that when there are too many stitches on the needle to continue magic loop it is easy to see where the repeat starts/ends. On the odd rounds 9 – 35, the written instructions are for one half of the washcloth, the entire line will be repeated once after the center of round marker.
**I’ve had several inquiries about a possible mistake in the pattern – getting wrong stitch count in the beginning – It’s been so long since I knit this that I can’t double check without reknitting it…will get to it as soon as I can, sorry for not keeping up with this** 2/9/14
Round 1 – [yo, k1] 8 times
Round 2 (and all even rounds) – knit
Round 3 – k1, [yo, k1, yo, k3] 3 times, yo, k1, k2
Round 5 – k2, [yo, k1, yo, k5] 3 times, yo, k1, k3 (32sts)
Round 7 – k3, [yo, k1, yo, k7] 3 times, yo, k1, k4 (40 sts)
Round 9 – *k4, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k1, yo, k5 (repeat from *) (48 sts)
Round 11 – *k5, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k1, yo, k6 (repeat from *) (56 sts)
Round 13 – *k6, yo, k1, yo, k2, [k2tog, yo]twice, k1, [yo, ssk]twice, k2, yo, k1, yo, k7 (repeat from *) (64 sts)
Round 15 – *k7, yo, k1, yo, k2, [k2tog, yo]twice, k3, [yo, ssk]twice, k2, yo, k1, yo, k8 (repeat from *) (72 sts)
Round 17 – *k8, yo, k1, yo, k2, [k2tog, yo]3 times, k1, [yo, ssk]3 times, k2, yo, k1, yo, k9 (repeat from *) (80 sts)
Round 19 – *k9, yo, k1, yo, k2, [k2tog, yo]3 times, k3, [yo, ssk]3 times, k2, yo, k1, yo, k10 (repeat from *) (88 sts)
Round 21 – *k10, yo, k1, yo, k2, [k2tog, yo]3 times, k5, [yo, ssk]3 times, k2, yo, k1, yo, k11 (repeat fom *) (96 sts)
Round 23 – *k11, yo, k1, yo, k4, [yo, ssk]3 times, k3, [k2tog, yo]3 times, k4, yo, k1, yo, k12 (rep from *) (104 sts)
Round 25 – *k12, yo, k1, yo, k6, [yo, ssk]3 times, k1, [k2tog, yo]3 times, k6, yo, k1, yo, k13 (rep from *) (112 sts)
Round 27 – *k13, yo, k1, yo, k8 [yo, ssk]twice, yo, (sl, k2tog, psso), yo, [k2tog, yo]twice, k8, yo, k1, yo, k14 (rep from *) (120 sts)
Round 29 – *k14, yo, k1, yo, k10, [yo, ssk]twice, k1, [k2tog, yo]twice, k10, yo, k1, yo, k15 (rep from *) (128 sts)
Round 31 – *k15, yo, k1, yo, k12, yo, ssk, yo, (sl, k2tog, psso), yo, k2tog, yo, k12, yo, k1, yo, k16 (rep from *) (136 sts)
Round 33 – *k16, yo, k1, yo, k14, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k14, yo, k1, yo, k17 (rep from *) (144 sts)
Round 35 – *k17, yo, k1, yo, k16, yo, (sl, k2tog, psso), yo, k16, yo, k1, yo, k18 (rep from *) (152 sts)
Round 37 – k18, [yo, k1, yo, k37]3 times, yo, k1, yo, k19 (160 sts)
Round 39 – k19, [yo, k1, yo, k39]3 times, yo, k1,yo, k20 (168 sts)
Round 40 – purl
Round 41 – k20, [yo, k1, yo, k41] 3 times, yo, k1, k21 (176 sts)
Round 42 – purl
Round 43 – k21, [yo, k1, yo, k43] 3 tmes, yo, k1, k22
Bind off purlwise
Weave in ends and block.